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An unlikely poster child
Meet Shannon Martinez, the creative force behind internationally renowned vegan brand Smith & Daughters. And why the heck does she eat meat?
Celebrity chef, creative genius, vegan trailblazer. These were not words anyone would think of using to describe Shannon Martinez when she was starting out about 15 years ago, and least of all herself. She didn’t think she’d become the target of hate and online trolling for her efforts either. But this is the (upside-down) cross she has chosen to bear as a meat-eating vegan chef.
Shannon says her primary passion is food and cooking. When she first started creating vegan dishes, no one else was providing a dining experience for vegans that we have come to expect now. She says, “Vegans like to eat out as much as non-vegans, so it was really important for me at that time to focus on doing this as a chef. Just like some chefs will focus on seafood or steak houses, I wanted to focus on vegan food because it was a creative outlet, and it was filling a gap.” Of course, many plant-based restaurants were around long before the now-iconic Smith & Daughters opened its doors, but arguably, none had appealed to the broader population of Melbourne in the way Shannon’s food has.
Smith & Daughters opened its doors on bustling Brunswick Street in 2014 with an innovative menu, full of frighteningly realistic meaty dishes, with a Latino flair. They immediately attracted a cult-like following of vegans and meat-eaters alike, who also eagerly embraced Smith & Deli, which opened just one year later. Since then the New York style deli has expanded to incorporate a full range of vegan charcuterie, cheeses, dips and ready-made meals. In the meantime, Smith & Daughters relaunched with a new Italian-themed menu. Change is constant here, and in fact, this is what has driven Shannon since the beginning. “The idea of not knowing anything and starting from scratch was really fucking exciting to me. For a lot of chefs it’s not because they build and build to become an expert at something. But for me it was like let’s do something new and weird and figure out some cool stuff,” she says.
“Me not being vegan has really helped non-vegans come to the restaurant and has opened their eyes to the food,” she says. Make no mistake, Shannon isn’t just cooking for vegans and says her target audience these days is the meat-eaters. “I want to change the preconceived notion that vegan food is shit. There is nothing better to convince a meateater that they don’t need to eat meat every day than creating something that feels and tastes exactly like what they’re used to.” And in her mind, she simply could not do this if she were vegan. Shannon says, “If I was vegan, the flavours I’d create in my dishes would be different to the flavours I create as a non-vegan. Vegans might not even think to create the dishes I do, like the blood sausage we had on the menu a while back.” People trying or transitioning to plant-based alternatives do have a different palate to longer-term vegans. Think about that first soy latte you ever tried. It was probably a fairly confronting taste, but in time … nectar of the gods! Palates and preferences change over time depending on what you become accustomed to, so she has a very valid point here.
“I use the ways I learned to cook things from the start, so traditional cooking and cheesemaking methods. I implement classic cooking techniques to vegan food and have learnt how to supplement ingredients. That was what took a long time, figuring out what worked. I also have done a lot of mistake making and experimenting.” Shannon creates different seitan bases for different meat alternatives because, for example, turkey tastes nothing like ham and she takes great pride in her dishes being close replicas of the animal-based versions. She says, “One of my pet peeves is companies that take the piss out of vegans by calling something turkey (for example), when it’s actually nothing like the real thing.”
While Shannon shows immense respect for the vegan experience, the same courtesy has not always been returned to her. She says, “The amount of hate I have to deal with on a daily basis has taken me so close to closing it all down. It can be violent, abusive, and out of control. It’s constant no matter what I do, and it’s fucking exhausting. Sometimes I wonder if it’s worth it.” While Shannon understands that her becoming a poster child for veganism without fully committing to the lifestyle has seriously offended some people, she wishes those individuals would look at the bigger picture. “I’m not just doing this for vegans. I work 100 hours a week and people think I’m only doing this to profit off veganism. There’s plenty of easier ways I could do that.”
It makes you think that she must resonate with veganism in more ways than the opportunity for truly creative cooking. Shannon says, “If we’re talking about veganism as a whole it’s not just about animal rights, it’s also about the environment, and that’s what it is for me.” Her ethics have changed the way she runs her own businesses over time too. Smith & Deli once sold an impressive range of vegan products from around the world but is now committed to lowering food miles. With vegan groceries no longer on offer, the deli focuses on making everything in-house from Australian products wherever possible, and the restaurant is no different. She says, “Apart from feeding people, I think restaurants need to become more sustainable. Running restaurants that are purely protein based now is ridiculous. They need to move forward and realise not everyone wants that anymore and we may not be able to provide the protein to continue doing that anyway.”
Shannon’s knowledge of the environmental impact of raising animals for food could rival that of most vegan activists. “I watch all the documentaries, I’ve been to farms and slaughterhouses, I’ve seen the worst of it. I make educated choices. I know what I’m doing and the impact of that.” It’s always fascinated me when I hear of people who understand the ethics, but don’t commit to the change themselves. When I put this to Shannon she says, “As the years go on, it sits worse and worse with me, but I think this is happening to everyone. I’m an arsehole for eating meat. I know this but it’s a part of my life that is based on food and cheffing. I do wonder when the day will come that this changes though.” In the meantime, she’s using her brand and celebrity status to influence and inspire diners and restaurants the world over.
“If I can convince a meat-eater to eat even one vegan meal a day, the impact of that is huge. I want to change the way people eat at home, make it easier for them,” she says. This is one of the reasons Smith & Deli started offering ready-made meals that people can take home. Shannon knows vegans want and need convenience as much as anyone else, just as she knows restaurants want and need to see the value in catering to the growing plant-based market. She says, “If I’m going to take my brand somewhere, I want it to have an impact. That might be to influence a restaurateur to put a vegan option on their menu when they may have been sceptical about doing so before. I don’t care if they are into the ethics of it all, I just want them to put vegan options on.”
When you consider Shannon’s two businesses, she has already trained about 30 to 40 chefs and cooks, who have gone on to work in other restaurants with a completely different outlook on food, influencing menus wherever they go. It wasn’t all that long ago that there were only a handful of plant-based restaurants in the Melbourne vegan scene. Now, there are well over 200 options in a thriving vegan metropolis. I can’t help but credit some of this to Shannon’s dedication to taking veganism mainstream – and making it uber-cool at the same time (in that lowkey, not-trying-to-be-cool-but-I-just-am way that Melbournites have). I wonder how our unlikely vegan poster child feels about leaving a legacy like this. She almost sheepishly says, “What more could anyone want, I guess. What’s the point of being here if you don’t leave something positive? This change needs to happen. People need to have their eyes opened to the fact that vegan food can be fucking epic.”
SHANNON’S FAVES
EATING: Szechuan food – Mapo tofu is a fave.
DRINKING: Coffee.
READING: Cookbooks. I love them.
LISTENING TO: The latest Marilyn Manson song. He’s still my favourite.
WATCHING: The Boys.
WEARING: All black with boots. Typical Melbourne.
TATTOO: Nancy from The Craft on my thigh.
PLACE TO BE: Spain, but my heart is in Melbourne, I love it so much.
LITTLE-KNOWN FACT: I was the bass player in the goth industrial band, Voltera. I’m also a classical violinist.
RELAXING: Cooking at home without time pressure.
BEST TIP FOR A LIFE WELL-LIVED: Make your job your passion.
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Plant-based omega-3 from the sea
Forget fish oils – there is a marine microalgae that can better meet your omega-3 needs.
Omega-3 is an essential fatty acid that our bodies need for heart and brain health, strong immune systems, and good metabolism. Studies have indicated it may also have an effect on cognitive function and therefore the incidence of conditions such as anxiety, depression, and Alzheimer’s disease. Unfortunately, the human body cannot produce omega-3, so we have to consume it in our diets.
The three main omega-3 fatty acids are alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). ALA is found in plants such as flaxseeds, chia seeds and hemp seeds. EPA and DHA are a little more challenging for those following a plant-based diet as these are found mainly in fish and seafood. Our bodies can convert ALA into EPA and DHA, but only in very small amounts. This is where dietary supplements can be helpful. Many omega-3 supplements are made from fish oil or krill oil. However, these sea creatures don’t produce this nutrient themselves either – they obtain it by consuming the original source in their diets –marine microalgae, also known as marine phytoplankton. Phytoplankton are single-celled, aquatic plants that float in the upper layers of the ocean. Fish oils have become one of the biggest supplement industries in the world, but it doesn’t come without its problems.
Extracting oil from fish or krill requires multiple refining steps, often using solvents and chemicals in the process to reduce the amount of heavy metals and other contaminants in the end product. This increases the chance of oxidation and rancidity, due to the fish oil coming into contact with the ambient environment. There are also concerns regarding microplastics in wild fish and synthetic chemicals and antibiotics in farmed fish. In terms of sustainability, this $30 billion omega-3 industry poses a serious environmental threat, removing about 16 million tonnes of wild fish from the ocean each year. Overfishing also threatens the ocean’s food chain, impacting animals such as penguins, seals and whales, who all rely on krill as a food source.
There is an alternative though. We can cut out the ‘middlefish’ and we can simply consume the phytoplankton ourselves. These foods are available as supplements and wholefood powders, meaning we can obtain our omega-3 fatty acids in their purest and most bioavailable form.
Phytoplankton is currently harvested for human consumption in several different ways: wild harvested, grown in pools with or without covering, or otherwise grown in the highly controlled environment of a photobioreactor, as used by the brand Phytality. Aside from producing the purest phytoplankton, the photobioreactor also allows production to be increased simply by increasing the size of the facility – with no adverse effect on the ocean’s ecosystem. Given phytoplankton is a key food source for many marine animals, it is not ideal to remove this plant food from the ocean in great amounts. Also, these tiny plants are a vital natural resource for the climate – absorbing harmful carbon dioxide from the atmosphere through photosynthesis while also producing oxygen. In fact, scientists estimate phytoplankton may be responsible for more than half of all oxygen production, greater than that attributed to terrestrial plants.
When choosing a plant-based omega-3 supplement from the sea, we are better to avoid wild harvested products so as to leave all those powerful phytoplankton in the ocean where they belong. Besides, phytoplankton grown in a controlled environment produces a higher quality, higher purity omega-3 supplement. And in this case, the more controlled the environment, the better the end product for us and the ocean.
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No Meat May Q&A
Nourish spoke to No Meat May founder, Ryan Alexander, to find out why we should all give vego a go during May.
The inspiration for No Meat May
RM: What was the inspiration behind No Meat May?
RA: My big inspiration was an eye-opening talk by Jonathon Safran Foer about his book Eating Animals. Up until that point, I was blissfully ignorant to most of the negative impacts of my then meaty diet. He talked about the impossibility of getting half of the world to turn vegetarian in time to address some big environmental issues, but that the same massive impact could be achieved if everyone in the world simply reduced their meat consumption by half. This resonated with me on a deep level. Eating half as much meat seems like a no brainer when you consider the devastating effects of our current over-consumption.
That talk sent me heading in the less meat direction and inspired me to bring as many people along with me as I could. I went meat-free soon after and became aware of two coexisting worlds – the island of the meat eater and the island of the vego. No Meat May is my way of building a bridge between these two worlds, so that meat eaters can wander over and experience what no meat feels like for a good 31 days. It’s a chance to break old habits, experience how good a higher fibre diet feels, and develop a more conscious approach to eating.
Digging into the issues around food security
RM: Most of us understand choosing plant-based is better for health, the environment and animals, but can you explain how it affects food security?
RA: Animals (livestock) used for food are highly inefficient converters of feed, energy, and natural resources. In short, livestock consume way more food than they produce. And, we live in a world where one billion people go hungry every night. As the world continues to develop, the global demand for meat is growing, meaning demand for cereals to feed livestock will double in developing countries. And to meet this demand, the world’s farmers will have to produce 40% more grain by 2050. Also, as the climate catastrophe we call global warming hits in full force, food shortages will become more prevalent and create more malnutrition and political instability. So, food security is a big emerging issue.
We need to divert feed away from intensive animal farming operations and instead produce high quality plant protein to feed people, paying farmers a fair price along the way. We, together with our governments and the animal feed industry, are in a unique and powerful position to save lives and lead change.
The difference a month makes
RM: What difference could cutting meat out of our diet for just one month possibly make?
RA: So much difference! On a personal level, you will give your system a high fibre boost, reduce your carbon footprint and environmental impact, and save some animals! It is estimated that a meat eater will consume a minimum 365 sea and land animals per year, so we say you can save an animal a day during No Meat May. The high number of animals consumed is partly due to animals being fed other animals to produce the meat people eat. For example, factory farmed pigs now eat more fish than the hundreds of millions of sharks in our oceans!
From a cultural perspective, you will challenge norms, start conversations around the dinner table, and raise awareness of important issues. Never underestimate the power of your voice and your wallet. Nor can you underestimate the influence you can have on the people around you. About 94% of No Meat May participants reduce or eliminate meat beyond the month of May, with 30% reporting they stick with it permanently. You see, a big part of meat consumption is habitual, and many people find when they break the habit, and flood their bodies with high fibre plant proteins, they feel lighter and stronger.
How to go meat-free
RM: If we cut meat out of our diets for the whole of May, what can we fill that gap with?
RA: Simply replace meat with nutrient-rich and cholesterol-free plant proteins! And focus on healthy unprocessed whole foods to really thrive. Including some plant-based protein on every plate will make you feel fuller and ensure you are getting all the iron, zinc, calcium, and other micro goodies your body needs.
I’m all about tofu in its many shapes and sizes, and love tempeh fried with garlic, lemon, olive oil and soy sauce. I also love pulses, lentils, chickpeas, peas and beans in every shape and colour, plus all the nuts and seeds. And there is an abundance of products made with these nowadays … like edamame or mung bean pasta. How about cashew blue cheese? Yes please! There are also lots of plant-based “meat” products, from pea protein burgers that bleed to delicious vegan prawns and faux fish. If your local supermarket doesn’t stock these, check online. You’ll find some amazing vegan supermarkets and wholesalers that will change your world.
RM: Do you ever miss eating meat now that you’ve given it up for good?
RA: Not for a second. Vego feels way too good. I used to get occasional cravings when I walked past the bagged roast chickens, but when I unpacked those cravings, they were just because I was hungry, or craved some protein, fat or salt, which I now get from plant-based foods.
Mindset and motivation
RM: How can we stay inspired all month?
RA: Make sure you keep it fun and bring a sense of adventure to No Meat May. Involve your besties, get your chef on and explore new recipes, or take food safaris on the weekends to find the best plant-based plates in town. Download the Happy Cow app – it’s brilliant for finding the best veggie food within walking distance. Keep connected to the No Meat May community via Facebook or Instagram. Also, our email newsletters have some fab free cooking demos from some seriously great cooks.
And finally, use this time to learn more about the issues with meat production by reading a book (e.g. Eating Animals or The Face on Your Plate), or watching a doco (e.g. Cowspiracy, What the Health, or Dominion if you can handle it).
No Meat May founders Ryan Alexander and Guy James Whitworth.
For more information, visit nomeatmay.net
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The ethical fashionista
Vegan Fashion Week founder, Emmanuelle Rienda, is boldly leading the evolution of sustainable vegan fashion globally. Discover her ideas and passion for social change that are igniting the fashion world.
Emmanuelle Rienda moved from France to the United States in 2008 with a dream of promoting elevated fashion through her showroom, Le Frenchlab, which was dedicated to introducing French designers into the US market. She had been vegetarian for the sake of the animals for many years, and also considered herself a feminist and an environmentalist. But, as many of us understand, it can be a long journey to connect the dots, educate yourself and understand what really goes on behind the walls of commercial industries.
She said, “I ultimately came to realise I did not want to contribute to the fashion industry by selling animal-made materials any more, including fur, leather, silk and wool on behalf of other designers. And all the clients I represented in my showroom at the time used animal products. So, I decided to close my showroom in 2016.”
The birth of Vegan Fashion Week
After making this drastic turn in her professional life, Emmanuelle faced challenges with the lack of information about vegan fashion, finding a strong disconnection between the vegan fashion movement and the fashion industry in general. But even more concerning to her was the disconnect she observed between vegan fashion and the sustainable fashion movement.
She said, “These are quite different concepts, with different philosophies behind them. For example, sustainable fashion still uses leather, wool, other animal fibres and skins are promoted as organic, humane or eco-friendly. But we need to acknowledge that factory farming and the fashion industry are two of the most polluting industries, with tanneries alone being in the top ten most devastating for human health, the planet, and of course the unnecessary suffering of animals.”
On the other hand, she acknowledges that vegan fashion also receives criticism regarding the use of not so eco-friendly alternatives like PU (polyurethane) and faux fur made of acrylic, and is an advocate for the continuing evolution in vegan fashion towards better and more sustainable alternatives. She says this is why she created Vegan Fashion Week – to showcase the best sustainable vegan innovations from around the world, so it can become a platform of discovery and inspiration for the broader fashion industry.
Change starts with us
Emmanuelle’s vision for vegan fashion is for it to be an honest, intersectional and meaningful solution for people, animals and the planet – and a movement that focuses on more than just one species.
“I think it is important to consider the concept of speciesism and try to be intersectional with our moral choices. We need to question everything from the way we exploit females from other species (such as cows and hens) to the sense of reducing plastic consumption to save sea life when you still put fish on your plate. With the issues our generation is facing, including global warming, pollution, and the way workers are treated in the fashion industry – we need to take responsibility about the way we consume. We decide what to eat, put on our skin, and wear every day, so change starts with us.”
Emmanuelle highlights the need to become aware of our cognitive dissonances, such as wearing leather when we strongly reject fur. She explains that, contrary to popular belief, leather is not a by-product and it isn’t produced in an effort to minimise waste. It’s produced because it is a highly profitable and lucrative business, with a cow’s skin representing approximately 10% of her total value, making it the most profitable part of her body.
The evolution of ethical fashion
Emmanuelle is firm in her belief that we should not cherry-pick which issues we are willing to work on. She says, “We are part of an ecosystem and the concept of speciesism is an important one. It is a social justice issue that requires our societal norms to evolve, just as they have regarding racism, women’s rights, LGBTQI+. As a society, we need to understand the importance of reversing the damage of the past. I believe people are ready to connect with truths outside of tradition and societal norms. This is evolution.”
If Vegan Fashion Week continues to be all that Emmanuelle wants it to be, it will also be the dawn of a new era in fashion – and a social justice movement. It is certainly the perfect forum to ignite conversations and debates within the industry, with the power to educate and draw connections between important values: the respect for human life, the protection of the environment, and the need for animal rights.
— STEPS TO AN ETHICAL WARDROBE —
- Make a commitment to avoid buying animal-made products such as fur, wool, alpaca, cashmere, mohair, silk, leather, exotic skins, feathers.
- If you purge your wardrobe of animal-made products, try to donate or trade these pieces for more ethical options.
- Buy from labels and retailers that are transparent about their production processes and are committed to the wellbeing of their workforce as well as the environment.
- Avoid fast fashion; buy higher quality wardrobe staples that will last instead.
- Consider donating gently used clothes, dress shoes and hand bags to Dress for Success, an organisation that doesn’t resell your donations, but puts them to good use for disadvantaged women who need professional attire.
- Sign up to Vegan Fashion Week’s e-newsletter for more tips and links to amazing vegan designers.
Image: Jordan McKinsey
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Travel kind
When done well, wildlife tourism can help protect wild animals and provide local communities with vital sources of income.
Being a mindful traveller means you can be a part of the solution instead of being part of the problem. Aim to find animal-loving ways to spend your tourist dollars.
Five of the best
1. Photograph wild animals in the wild
Observe and photograph wild animals in their natural environments where they exhibit naturally fascinating behaviours. For example, Sri Lanka has the highest density of wild Asian elephants in the world. See tigers in their natural habitat in Ranthambore National Park in India, part of a national conservation initiative. Take a safari through one of Africa’s national parks to see big cats and other animals interacting in family groups.
2. Visit animal sanctuaries for close-up experiences that benefit the animals too
There are numerous sanctuaries for animals who have been orphaned, affected by habitat loss, illegally traded, injured or rescued from abusers. In many cases these animals can not be released, but a sanctuary will always work towards rehabilitation and release if possible. Look for a sanctuary accredited by the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries, which has rigorous standards of sanctuary management and animal care.
3. Snorkel or dive in waters where sea life abounds
You can spot six of the world’s seven species of turtle on the Great Barrier Reef including green turtles and the increasingly rare loggerhead. Seek out one of about twenty locations worldwide where you can swim near while sharks.
4. Encounter dolphins and whales in the wild
You’ll find whale watching cruises the world over, and where there are whales there are usually dolphins. Seeing these magnificent creatures leaping out of the water as part of their natural behaviours beats seeing one bounce a ball on its nose in a pool any day.
5. Volunteer at a wildlife conservation or rescue organisation
Well-managed sanctuaries will limit contact with animals, and volunteers will work more on data collection, habitat enrichment and enclosure maintenance, all of which have a positive impact on the lives of the animals at the sanctuary. Be wary of money-making enterprises that have nothing to do with conservation.
Seeing wild animals when you travel can be a memorable part of your travel experience. However, you may not be aware captive animals often suffer unseen cruelty and abuse. Many wild animals are taken from their natural environments to be exploited for entertainment and profit. When you see a captive wild animal on your holiday, often you can’t see the cruelty. It’s hidden from view. A good ground rile is if you can ride or touch it, take a photo with it, or see it perform tricks, you can be sure it’s cruel.
Ten of the worst
1. Riding elephants
To make elephants submit to giving rides, they are taken from their mothers when babies and ‘broken’ with bull hooks and batons to establish the dominance of the keeper. Elephants are a dangerous animal to handle, so they are often controlled with these methods throughout their lives, while being prevented from forming family and social relationships.
2. Taking tiger selfies
Tiger cubs are separated from their mothers when just a few weeks old so they can be hugged and handled by hundreds of tourists a day. They are often punished using pain and fear to prevent aggressive behaviours and it’s not unusual for them to be drugged or tied down for the petting pleasure of tourists.
3. Walking with lions
Similar to tiger cubs, lion cubs are taken from their mothers within a month of birth so tourists can handle them and pose for photos. When the cubs are too big to pick up but still young enough to control, they are used for a walking with lions experience and then face a lifetime of captivity.
4. Visiting bear parks
Bears are kept in barren, overcrowded ‘pits’ with little or no behavioural enrichment. They are solitary creatures in the wild so are prone to infighting when in captivity. And there is nothing more unnatural than dressed up or performing bears.
5. Holding sea turtles
Holding a sea turtle causes it to suffer a great deal of stress which can weaken its immune system and increase its susceptibility to disease. When handled by tourists, they often panic and intensely flap their flippers, which can cause fractures and detached claws.
6. Performing dolphins
Dolphins are often captured from the wild with nets or chased down by high-speed boats before being hauled on board. They then spend their entire lives in a space not much bigger than a swimming pool – completely unnatural compared to their natural open sea environment.
7. Dancing monkeys
Many species of primates are used for street entertainment. For example, macaques are trained aggressively and painfully, to make them walk, behave and appear more human. When they’re not performing, the macaques are often kept chained in small, barren cages.
8. Touring civet coffee plantations
When pellets are collected from civets in the wild, no cruelty is involved. But in an attempt to produce more civet coffee, farmers have started catching the civets and keeping them in small, crowded cages where they are encouraged to gorge on an unbalanced diet of coffee cherries.
9. Charming snakes or kissing cobras
The cobras used for street entertainment are usually captured from the wild, then defanged with metal pliers and their venom ducts are either blocked or removed – often with unsanitised equipment. This can result in painful infections and can kill them.
10. Farming crocodiles
Large numbers of crocodiles are being kept on farms and intensively bred – mainly to supply the fashion industry with their skins, but also for their meat. These farms are a common wildlife tourism experience. The animals are usually housed in concrete pits and conditions are often severely overcrowded and unhygenic.
The more we can be aware of the way animals are being treated, the more we’ll be able to protect them from cruelty and suffering. Being animal friendly when you travel means you always show respect – for the people, the culture, the environment and the animals, in every country you visit. Many of us have taken part in activities we didn’t realise were harmful at the time. So, let’s focus on learning the issues and making better choices going forward.
Will you take the pledge to be an animal friendly traveller? Sign up at worldanimalprotection.org.au/be-animal-friendly-traveller
This information is courtesy of World Animal Protection, who work on projects worldwide helping governments and communities to protect and care for their animals.
worldanimalprotection.org.au
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